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Regional Coordinators: Kevin Gallagher

New England West News

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Please don't hesitate to contact me with any questions:

Also, check out the New England West Facebook group for announcements and to connect with other climbers in our region.

Last update: May 11, 2015. Regionals speed & sport results and divisionals info added

Sport and Speed Divisional Championship

The Divisional Championships will be held at Central Rock Gym in Watertown, MA. Registration is now closed. All information about Divisionals (schedule, volunteer information, running order, etc.) will be posted on the New England West regional page.

Sport and Speed Regional Championship

Many thanks to everyone who participated in the Regional Championship and made it a success: the volunteers (although we could have used a bit more help in the morning!); the Rock Club staff and setting team; and, most of all, congratulations to all the climbers.

Check out "Reading the Results" to understand the details of the ranking methodology.

Rule Changes

The Rules Committee made some significant changes to the rules this year. Here is a summary of some of the more important changes that I've noticed.

This is just a summary -- read the Rulebook yourself too! It's your responsibility to know the rules to avoid disappointment at the comps! Start with Section 1, "Significant Changes - Overview".

  • Section 13.2, "Guidelines for Routesetting and Scoring": This section explains in great detail how holds are scored. There is also an explanation of the route map, which a climber normally only gets to see for a few seconds after their climb.
  • Section 5.28, "Scoring": This has been expanded to more completely describe some of the nuances of scoring, including "control", "positive movement" and "usable surface".
  • Sections 5.18.5-5.18.12: The biggest change here is a clarification that competitors must control the starting hold(s) before using their hands for climbing on any other holds.
  • Sections 6.10.1 (Sport Rankings) and 8.4.1 (Bouldering Rankings): At Regionals, Divisionals and Nationals the finish order for each round is determined first by the number of tops a competitor got followed by the geometric mean of their rank on each route/boulder. Yep, it's a little more complicated than how it used to be done. See the rules for details on the math. Also helpful is 'Reading the results'.
  • Section 7.6.10: Speed competitors are only allowed one false start per round, instead of two. A second false start will result in disqualification.
  • Section 5.25.9: If a speed competitor suffers a technical incident, the other climber does not get to reclimb the route.
  • Section 7.8: If there are any ties among speed competitors advancing to the next round, they shall immediately reclimb the routes.

Again, be sure to read the rulebook for the full and complete rules.

Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

Sport and Speed 2015 Schedule

New England West Local Comps

Feb 28, 2015 -- Central Rock Gym, Glastonbury, CT
Mar 14, 2015 -- New Jersey Rock Gym, Fairfield, NJ
Mar 21, 2015 -- The Gravity Vault, Upper Saddle River, NJ
Apr 11, 2015 -- The Gravity Vault, Chatham, NJ
Apr 18, 2015 -- The Gravity Vault, Middletown, NJ
Apr 25, 2015 -- Carabiner's, Fairfield, CT

Note: Climbers may compete at any local comp, in any region, to satisfy the two comp minimum requirement for regionals. To be eligible to advance to Divisionals, competitors must compete at their home Regional Championship.

Sport and Speed 2015 Championship Comps

May 9, 2015 -- Youth Regional Championship, The Rock Club, New Rochelle, NY
Jun 13-14, 2015 -- Youth Divisional Championship, Central Rock Gym, Watertown, MA
July 9-12, 2015 -- Youth National Championship, Stone Summit, Kennesaw, GA


Mar 27-28, 2015 -- Sport and Speed Open National Championship, Central Rock Gym, Watertown, MA

Bouldering 2015/2016 Schedule

New England West Local Comps

The local comp schedule will be posted in late summer.

Bouldering Championship Comps

Dec 12, 2015 -- Youth Regional Championship, Location TBD
Jan 9-10, 2016 -- Youth Divisional Championship, Location TBD
Feb 5-7, 2016 -- Youth National Championship, Madison, Wisconsin

Jan 29-30, 2016 -- Open National Championship, Madison, Wisconsin

Regional Realignment

USA Climbing is changing the regional and divisional boundaries effective September 1, 2015. This fall's 2015/2016 Bouldering season will use these new boundaries. Our region will be made up of Western Massaschusetts, Connecticut, Rhode Island and New York. New Jersey will no longer be part of our region.

Starting next season, there will only be two regions within each division. Our new division will include New England West and New England East (Vermont, New Hamphshire, Maine, and Eastern Massachusetts). Pennsylvania, Maryland, Delaware and Virginia will no longer be part of our division.

10 climbers (instead of 7) will advance from Regionals to Divisionals per gender and category. Then at Divisionals, 6 climbers per gender and category will advance to Nationals for Bouldering and Sport Climbing.

The rule for qualifying for Regionals remains the same: You must compete in two local comps, which can be in *any* region. You will then compete in the Regional Championship in your home region.

The location of your team's gym determines which is your home region. So, if you live in New Jersey, but climb at a gym in New York then your home region is New England West and you will compete in the New England West Regional Championship.

Click here for more information, including the new map.

Any questions or concerns? Post them on the New England West Facebook page or send me email at:

About Our Region

Until September 2015, the New England West Region (Region 502) is one of three regions that make up Division 5:

  • Capital Region (501): Eastern PA, DE, MD, DC and Northern VA
  • New England West (502): NJ, NY, CT, Western MA
  • New England East (503): VT, ME, NH, RI, Eastern MA

Regional Coordinator

Kevin Gallagher (

For news from your regional coordinator, click on your region.

USAC Regions

Division 1:  Washington / Alaska Northwest Northern California
Division 2:  Southern California Southern Mountain Colorado
Division 3:  Midwest Ohio River Valley Mid-Atlantic
Division 4:  Heartland Bayou Deep South
Division 5:  Capital New England West New England East


New England East New England West Capital Mid-Atlantic Ohio River Valley Deep South Bayou Heartland Midwest Southern Mountain Southern California Northern California Northwest Washington / Alaska Colorado